Sunday, December 20, 2009

COP15 was A Tale of Two Speeches

Two Thursdays ago, I took a short break from dashing around the UN Climate Change Conference in Copenhagen, Denmark to watch President Obama give his Nobel Peace Prize acceptance speech. My bleeding one-world heart was all a-flutter to watch it with a truly international audience: delegates, press, NGO observers and security personal representing many of the 193 nations in attendance gathered around a projector screen to watch the President reflect on winning the ultimate peacemaker's prize mere days after committing yet more soldiers to our eight-year-long war in Afghanistan.

Obama's speech, in my opinion, was moving and eloquent. After much internal and external debate, I had decided that I did not support sending any additional troops to Afghanistan, and the speech did not change my conclusion. What it did do, however, was give me confidence that while his ultimate decision may have been wrong, Obama's core principles were worthy of my respect. He acknowledged that violence in all forms is abhorrent, he asserted the need for the oppressed to have justice, and he showed humility in the face of his own limitations. After he finished, as people from every corner of the world applauded around me, I felt a surge of pride in my country and the ideals, so beautifully articulated by it's leader, for which I believe it stands.

Eight days later, Obama was back in Scandinavia and I again found myself watching him speak. This time, I watched from my apartment as all of civil society had been kicked out of the conference center in direct violation of UN principles agreed to in, of all places, Denmark. The mood was decidedly darker as, with less than 24 hours remaining in the alloted time, barely any progress had been made towards an agreement to address climate change. Outside the fortress-like Bella Center, police had met peaceful protests with violence. Inside, the smaller, poorer, and most threatened countries had effectively been excluded from the negotiation process. A process on which their survival depended.

As Obama walked toward the podium, I knew that even if he gave a speech that topped his magnificent effort in Oslo, it still wouldn't mean that the fair, ambitious and binding treaty I hoped for would be signed. In all honesty, most people had known for months that that sort of result was a fantasy. What I didn't know, what I hadn't even imagined, was that the speech I was about to hear would not only offer no inspiration, but also arrogantly demand that the world sign on to an agreement of America's creation, which served America's interests, and which doomed millions to famine, flood and destruction.

With this speech, Obama allied himself with the idea that the powerful will make decisions, and the powerless will suffer the consequences. He allied himself with the concept that what can be taken, should be taken. He allied himself with the fallacy that we are not responsible for the damage we inflict on others. The equality, the justice and the humility he called for in Oslo were gone.

Obama made a mistake in Copenhagen. He was far from the only one to do so. In his defense, people will say that he was exhausted from the health care debate and the trans-atlantic flight, that the speech was a negotiation tactic, and above all that he was being realistic in the face of a skeptical American public and an enormous, chaotic conference on the verge of collapse. All true. But he would do well to remember his own words, delivered in such stark elegance a scant week before:

"We are fallible. We make mistakes, and fall victim to the temptations of pride, and power, and sometimes evil. Even those of us with the best intentions will at times fail to right the wrongs before us. But we do not have to think that human nature is perfect for us to still believe that the human condition can be perfected. We do not have to live in an idealized world to still reach for those ideals that will make it a better place."

Climate change is more than just bigger hurricanes and hotter summers. It is the natural manifestation of humanity's inability to impose limits on our own consumption, or deal with its consequences. In Oslo, President Obama inspired us to "reach for the world that ought to be." In Copenhagen, he reminded us how far we still have to go.

Monday, December 14, 2009

COP15 is The Copenhagen Debacle?

Note: This post can also be found at http://sscinternational.org/

In terms of excitement, the first day of week two may surpass all five days of week one combined. Before lunch. The Group of 77 and China have halted formal negotiations over concerns that the Kyoto Protocol will be abandoned, and COP President Connie Hedegaard was a no-show for her scheduled briefing with youth as she (we assume) attempts to pick up the pieces.

In other news, rumors have been flying via email, twitter and the web that Canada has announced a courageous emissions reduction target of 40% of 1990 levels by 2020, 80% by 2050 and 5% of GDP annually by 2030 in financing. As of right now, I'd say that it looks like a stunt (props to Osman Faruqi for pointing out discrepancies between the WSJ site and the link site) possibly perpetrated by those devious activists the Yes Men. The truly sad part is how quickly people jumped to this conclusion. Is the idea that developed nations will step up with the actions this planet requires so completely far-fetched?

Finally, word has come down from the Secretariat that Observers (NGOs and IGOs) will be severely restricted in their access to the Bella Center for the rest of the week. Allegedly, only 90 (!) civil society delegates (out of around 7000 present today) will be allowed inside on Friday. Apparently CAN (Climate Action Network–the association of environmental NGOs) will be meeting with the UNFCCC people to register their complaints about how this action taints the entire Copenhagen process. Anybody want to bet on whether this appeal will be successful?

Considering these facts (huge and still growing division between developed/developing, no ambition from Annex I, poor logistical management by UNFCCC/hosts), I think it's fair to ask whether this conference will ultimately be viewed as a huge failure. And, of course, who will shoulder the blame. Obviously the finger pointing will know no bounds, but perhaps the nation with the most to lose is little old Denmark. This government has staked a lot on getting something (increasingly: anything) out of this conference. For this reason, and the fact that the numerous visiting heads of state don't wont to return home empty-handed, I'm guessing we will see some sort of agreement by the end of the week. But I'm becoming more and more afraid that this agreement will be weak and ultimately meaningless.

I hate being pessimistic, but it just doesn't seem like anybody (except maybe the small island states) are willing to do what it takes. May the leaders of this troubled world prove me wrong.

Saturday, December 12, 2009

COP15 is a Wild Ride

Hi All,

I'm approaching the end of my first week as a youth delegate at the UN Climate Change Conference in Copenhagen. I could write pages and pages about my time here, but I've decided to simply post a few pictures and some highlights.


One of the many gathering spaces within the Bella Center. This place is HUGE. In addition to the meeting rooms, there are restaurants, educational displays, media rooms and even a Danish furniture store.


This is a (poor) photo of the inside of one of the plenary halls, where delegates express their opinions on draft texts, etc. Most of these sessions are about posturing, with the nuts and bolts negotiating taking place behind closed doors. The drafts that emerge from these private meetings are subject to discussion in the larger, open plenary sessions.


The US Government has a Center within the conference venue where officials give talks to the public. This is Under Secretary of State for Democracy and Global Affairs Maria Otero. There have also been briefings by EPA Administrator Lisa Jackson, Secretary of the Interior Ken Salazar and Secretary of Commerce Gary Locke. I actually also had the opportunity to meet with Secretary Locke in a small group setting involving the Secretary, six members of the US youth delegation and six members of the Chinese youth delegation. We've been collaborating a fair amount with the Chinese youth, something that has been extremely interesting and exciting. We come from very different backgrounds and have conflicting views on certain things, but the chance for dialogue has been fantastic. We are planning a joint press conference for Monday, and there are rumors about a possible sit down with youth from both delegations and President Wen Jibao of China and Obama himself, when they arrive.


Many NGOs conduct "actions"within the Bella Center advocating for certain causes. These guys dressed up as aliens asking to be taken to "your climate leader" to appeal for leadership on climate change issues.


These folks are advocating for wealthy countries to shoulder the load on emissions reductions as their industrialization and current consumption patterns account for the vast majority of current green house gases in the atmosphere.


A bunch of US youth delegates with EPA Administrator Lisa Jackson. Can you spot me?


An anti-tar sands action organized by the US and Canadian Youth, along with indigenous people from the affected areas.



COP president Connie Hedegaard leading a plenary session.


This is from a protest at an Americans for Prosperity event that I attended, although I'm not in this picture. AFP is a "tea-party" type organization that doesn't believe in man-made global warming. They held this event at the Copenhagen Marriott and were broadcasting it back to the U.S. when a bunch of US youth in the audience stood up and began calling for clean energy and climate change mitigation. The event has gotten way more press than we expected, mainly because the scheduled speaker, a British climate change denier named Lord Monckton, called us "Hitler Youth" during and after the protest. Here's the video. There's also been articles in The Guardian (UK) and on Huffington Post.

That's all for now, but I'll hopefully be able to post more regularly now that I have my bearings. It's really difficult to describe the craziness that is occurring as 15,000 delegates, staff, press and NGO observers pack this place with survival of millions on the line.

Daniel

P.S. Check out the Sierra Student Coalition blog at http://sscinternational.org/ In particular, read my "First Week Awards" post =).

Monday, December 7, 2009

Denmark is Hosting the World

Hi All,

I'm sitting inside the 15th annual Conference of Parties of the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) and the opening ceremony is about to start.

I'm here with the Sierra Student Coalition, the youth organization of the Sierra Club. We are also part of the International Youth Delegation, which includes around 2000 young people from 80 countries. Over the weekend, I attended the 5th annual Conference of Youth during which all of the youth delegates discussed the policy proposals we wanted to see passed during the conference, and how we could make our opinions known to our individual national delegations.

The importance of the conference really began to hit home when I talked to a young woman from the Maldive Islands whose country, which is already forcing to adapt to rising sea levels and decreasing fish stocks, will be under water in less than a century unless CO2 emissions are reduced.

For the time being, our delegation will follow the policy discussions closely, hound the U.S. delegation and members of Congress in attendance, and work as hard as we can to achieve a fair, binding and ambitious agreement to combat climate change.

More info on the specific details of the negotiations, and what such an agreement might look like, will follow later.

Daniel

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Denmark is Good Eats

Hi All,

I got a head start on feasting season with an epic Thursday-Friday doubleheader this past week. Considering my usual three meal rotation of rice and beans, noodle stir-fry and lentil stew, I was pumped for something a bit more substantial, and Denmark delivered.

On Thursday, the Fulbright Commission invited all the scholars to an (early) Thanksgiving dinner at their new Copenhagen offices. It was great to see everybody again after being scattered around the country for the past two and a half months. I was reminded again how diverse are projects are: iron-age swordsmaking, modern digital xylophone, Kierkegaard's concept of love and torture in the contemporary context, just to name a few.

The dinner featured 3 turkeys (albeit smaller than normal) as well as staples such as stuffing, green beans, and potato casserole. We also had more Danish fare such as tuna cakes, salmon and rye bread.

On Friday, all the students in my department at the university had a "Julefrokost," which literally translates to "Christmas Lunch." Julefrokost is a big Danish tradition and one has many of them throughout the Christmas season with different groups of friends and finally one's family. The "lunch" is a classically large meal with many courses that can last several hours.

Our Julefrokost featured several salads, breads, cheeses, herring, frikadeller (Danish meatballs), red cabbage, falafel (?) and one of the best pork tenderloins I have ever had. The eating and talking was broken up on numerous occasions by schnapps toasts and the singing of traditional Danish songs that I couldn't understand a word of. After thoroughly stuffing ourselves, I expected some equivalent of the post-Thanksgiving dinner ritual known as falling asleep while watching football. Nope. Turns out the post Julefrokost tradition (at least among university students) is to dance wildly to Euro-pop.

I'm back to cereal and PB&J for the time being, but here's hoping I get invited to more splendid meals in the near future. I'm off to the Netherlands (Leiden and Amsterdam) next weekend so next blog post should have reports and pictures from my first extra-Danish exploration.

Daniel

Monday, November 9, 2009

Denmark is Only a Few Hours from Berlin

Hi All,

Today is the twentieth anniversary of the tearing down of the Berlin Wall. There are celebrations in Germany and a plethora of articles in newspapers and on the web about the significance of that spectacular visual monument to the end of the Cold War. I wish I'd known it was coming up so I could have arranged a trip to Germany to see all the festivities.

The Wall coming down (and the Wall itself) has always been a strange phenomenon for me. It happened before I was old enough to remember it and signaled the end of an era I never experienced. At Rice, one of the "cool things" on the campus was a piece of the Berlin Wall. I mostly remember how little significance it held for me.

In my perspective, Germany has always been one country and the Soviet Union something that I never feared. I remember being very little and playing some sort of submarine game at our local pool in which all the participants had to pick an army to be. When asked, I answered that I was the U.S.S.R because U.S.A. had already been taken and I assumed that because they sounded similar they must be almost the same thing. A kid yelled "Ah, he's the Russians," surprising the hell out of me. U.S.S.R. meant Russians?

I was a party last Friday and found myself talking to some Germans from Berlin. It never occurred to me to ask them what they thought about the anniversary, but I now I really wish I had. If it feels weird for me to reflect on the end of an era I never experienced as an American, what must it be like for them? I imagine if I had asked, they would have avoided the subject. It must be hard to see all the evidence of East and West for your whole life without ever experiencing what it was really like.

While the anniversary of the end of the Cold War is important for the significance it holds in the minds of those who lived through it, for me it is a chance to reflect on the post-Wall world that I have lived in for almost my entire life. It is my hope to spend some small portion of my year in Europe traveling through the former Communist Eastern states. I am positive that should I go to Poland or the Czech Republic or Hungary, there will be McDonald's there to greet me. The people there will probably gripe about how the Recession has affected them, just as they are doing in Copenhagen or Durham.

The Wall coming down was a triumph of people over oppression and a moment of immense hope. But what have we made of that moment? A couple of articles I read today lamented the missed opportunities. A great op-ed by Slavoj Zizek in the New York Times talks about how former Communist leaders in Eastern Europe quickly learned how to play the capitalist game so as to maintain their power and riches. This piece by Matt Taibbi outlines, with a sensationalist bent, how investment banks gamed the American political and economic process to make billions in bubble after bubble. It's almost as if after Capitalism won, it had to flaunt its victory by assuming its most evil form.

And, despite the triumph of '89, there are still walls. Not even just figurative ones. As my good friend Clint pointed out on his facebook profile, Palestinian youths celebrated the anniversary by tearing down a section of the wall that separates them from the rest of Israel. Until they got tear-gassed and rubber bulleted into submission.

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Denmark is Fundraising

Hi All,

As most of you know, I've been selected to be a member of the Sierra Club's student delegation to the UN Climate Change Conference taking place this December in Copenhagen. Myself and 19 other young people from around the United States will be able to attend negotiation sessions in which governments will attempt to reach an agreement on how to combat climate change.

I'm in the fortunate situation of not needing a plane ticket to Denmark or a place to stay while I'm here, but the same can't be said for the rest of the delegates. With that in mind, I'm helping the group raise money to offset their expenses. A plane ticket costs anywhere from $600-$800 and the group will need to pay for accommodations and food as well.

If you would like to help a wonderful group of young people realize their dream of preserving the planet for future generations, please make a contribution to this group.

I've created a website:

http://danielhc.chipin.com/sierra-student-coalition-delegation-to-cop15

that will allow you to make a donation with your credit card. Considering my location, I think this will be the easiest way to do things. The donation goes straight to my PayPal account, and I will then transfer the money to the group.

Thank you so much and I promise that I will post a *real* blog entry in the near future.

Daniel

P.S. I'll probably be sending out an email with a similar message, so I apologize in advance if you have to read this twice.

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Denmark is A Lot of Work

Hi All,

I'm sorry to say that I really haven't done anything interesting since my last post.  I'm now pretty busy with research work and preparations for the COP15 Conference.  Since I'm already here in Denmark, I'm trying to help a bunch of Sierra Club folks find places to stay during the conference, no small task considering most all the major hotels are already booked solid.  Hopefully I won't end up needing to cram 20 people into my 25 square meter apartment.

I did get a chance to meet the U.S. Ambassador to Denmark (I suppose that qualifies as interesting) at a Fulbright reception.  "Her Excellency" invited me and another Fulbrighter (also a North Carolinian, also working on renewable energy) to come by the Embassy in the future to talk more about our projects.  My inflated sense of self-importance almost caused me to pop a button...

Aside from the UN Conference, I'm looking forward to spending Thanksgiving in the Netherlands with family friend (and fellow Fulbrighter) Linda Rupert and her daughter Naomi.  Leiden, the city where they live, is where the Pilgrims hung out for a bit before setting sale for Massachusetts.  Consequently, it's one of the only places in Europe with an actual Thanksgiving celebration.  I plan on taking full advantage of the festivities (no word yet on whether there'll be turkey) and also spending a few days in Amsterdam.

I miss you all and GO PHILLIES!!!

Daniel

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Denmark is a Case of the Mondays

Hi All,

I'm sorry about going almost two weeks without a blog post, I'll try not to let it happen again.

If you've ever seen the movie "Office Space" you'll know that one of the things the protagonist, a cubicle-dweller named Peter Gibbons (played Ron Livingston), detests is the phrase "somebody's got a case of the Mondays."  This phrase (usually delivered dripping with mock pity) means that the person is in a bad mood caused by the start of the work week.  I'm sure we've all been there.

After a great weekend in which I took a trip with the university's International Club to the chalk cliffs of Møns Klint (Denmark's answer to Dover), I was not relishing a return to school work.  However, Monday Oct. 20th, seemingly out of nowhere, turned about to be that most wonderful of things: A Great Day.

After a morning spent working on a project brief to submit to my research supervisor, I met up with a classmate to put the sections of the brief together.  It was a productive session, and I left feeling good about the direction that our research work is taking.

I swung by the grocery store on my way back to the apartment to pick up a few things.  The day was cold but sunny, which made for a nice bike ride.  I stopped to check my mail before going inside.  I receive a ridiculous amount of junk catalogues, coupon books and free newspapers, and as a result, don't really like checking the mail because it means I have to sift through a bunch of crap.  Today, however, there was a genuine letter underneath the trash. 

Usually this just means I got a bill, but when I opened the envelope, I found out that the Danish Government had seen fit to give me a monthly rent stipend!  My feelings about the Welfare State are the subject for another post, but at that moment I was lovin' the Scandinavian model.

After studying some Danish and making myself a hearty dinner of lentil stew, apples and grilled cheese, I watched an episode of Ken Burns new documentary on the National Parks.  Really interesting and definitely worth seeking out.  If you're comfortable watching full-length videos on a computer (read: under 35 or Uncle Richie) then all the episodes of "The National Parks: America's Best Idea" are available on PBS' website.

Before bed, I checked my email one last time.  I saw a message I'd been hoping to receive for quite awhile.  I'd been accepted as a member of the Sierra Club Student Coalition Delegation to the UN Climate Change Conference in Copenhagen.  I'm going to be able to attend COP15 with actual credentials! Woo-hoo!

I somehow managed to calm down enough to go to bed (really, COP15's big deal for me...) only to wake up three hours letter to the sound of my alarm.  It was 2 am, time for Phillies-Dodgers, NLCS  Game 4.  Almost 4 hours later, as the sun was beginning to peek above the Danish horizon, Jimmy Rollins belted a two-out, bottom of the ninth, two-run walk-off hit to beat LA 5-4.  No classes today, so I can sleep in comfortably knowing that I'd had myself a fine case of the Mondays.

The (Off) White Cliffs of Møns Klint

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Denmark is Round Churches

Hi All,

I just got back from a week spent on a tiny little island in the middle of the Baltic Sea called Bornholm.  During this "field course" we did mini-projects using the island as a sort of test case for how different environmental policy/sustainability ideas could be implemented.  Our group looked at the potential for energy services companies (ESCOs) on the island.  An ESCO is a company that signs a contract with the owner of building to analyze how energy is used by that building and its occupants and then implements technological and behavioral changes to save energy.  This is all financed by the ESCO, which then receives an amount of money equal to the energy costs saved by its efforts for a certain period of time.

For example:  An ESCO retrofits a store that spends $1 million per year on energy with better insulation, more efficient lighting and solar panels on their roof.  The store now spends only $700K per year on energy.  The store pays the ESCO $300K per year for 5 years and then gets to enjoy the savings benefits free of charge.

ESCO are neat (and a lot more complicated than I make them sound) but they are not the subject of this post.  While I was on Bornholm, I visited one of the islands famous "round churches."

If you think it looks like a castle, that's because it kind of is.  Bornholm used to get raided all the time by Polish pirates so they built their churches as combo worship and defense spaces.  Denmark, and from what I understand Europe as a whole, is chock full of beautiful old churches.  I'm sure one could spend a lifetime traveling around and seeing them all.  The thing about them, however, is that they are now almost exclusively tourist destinations.  As you may know, not a whole lot of Europeans attend Christian churches anymore.
The Danes do know that Christianity is still very much alive in the U.S., and often ask me if I am religious.  When I reply in the affirmative, I can tell they are pretty surprised.  I think they assume anyone who is religious is a) fanatical b) uneducated and/or c) extremely conservative.  Come to think of it, I know a lot of Americans who believe this as well.  By the time the Dane has brought up religion, he or she usually knows me well enough to know that I am none of those things, so on more than one occasion I have been forced to explain my faith, something I am not very accustomed to doing in the U.S.  

I first have to dispel the myths that Danes often have about Christians, i.e., that we are all pro-life, anti-evolution, sinners-will-burn zealots.  I try to explain that even though I am Christian, I do not believe that everything in the Bible happened exactly as it is written.  One of the truly European fears about religion that the Danes often possess is the sense that being Christian means you are part of an establishment that has sought to suppress liberty and freedom for hundreds of years.  If you look at history, you can understand why.

On one occasion, after attempting to explain why I was religious, the Dane I was talking to nodded his head but, I'm pretty sure, still thought I was crazy.  He went on to say, though, that he felt he was a spiritual person and certainly wasn't an atheist, but had too many problems with the Bible to call himself a Christian.  Then he asked me how he could watch American Football on the internet.

There are some religions we can all agree on.

Alter in the Round Church

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Denmark is Tour de Boserup

Instead of another psuedo-political rant, I decided that for this week's post I would simply put up some pictures I took while on a bike ride through the Danish countryside.  I biked around Roskilde Fjord and spent some time in a nature preserve called Boserup Skov.





The ship in the middle is a replica Viking Longboat.  Can't wait to go on that tour.




Traditional thatched-roof house


Long since retired, this tug now stands silent watch over the fjord




Why is it impossible to resist taking pictures of farm animals?


Lightning strike, or something more sinister?








A pheasant?  Or maybe a grouse? I have no idea what the difference is.

Roskilde Cathedral

This week, I'll be on a field trip of sorts to an island called Bornholm.  I'll let you know how it went when I get back. 

Monday, September 21, 2009

Denmark is Grundtvig

Hello All,

This past Friday afternoon, a Danish classmate of mine named Marten taught me how to play an old Viking lawn game called Kubb.  It's a sort of mixture between horseshoes and bowling and is very entertaining.  While we played, Marten and I got into a discussion about the learning environment in Denmark.

I'd already had a little history on Danish academic tradition courtesy of my Fulbright orientation and I learned that a lot of it stems from the work of a 19th century Danish intellectual named N. F. S. Grundtvig.  Grundtvig believed, contrary to popular belief at the time, that all citizens should be educated with the goal of preparing them for active participation in society.  The emphasis, he posited, should be on freedom of expression, creativity, equality and cooperation.

Through Grundtvig's efforts a series of "folk high schools" were established throughout Denmark in which his theories were put into practice.  These schools, and the ideas on which they were based, became intertwined not only with Danish academic tradition but also in the Danish national conscience as a whole.  As part of this legacy, the Danish academic system (and my university in particular) is very student-centric.  Students, the Danes believe, should be encouraged to design their own study plans and to question anything the professor says if they feel it is flawed.

The Master's program I am enrolled is international, and contains students from all over the world.  About a third of the students are Chinese; a nation, I have learned, with a very different academic tradition.  Chinese students rarely, if ever, ask questions during class  When I asked one student why this was, she replied that it would be considered rude in China.  Chinese students, I have found, are also much more likely to complete an assignment by addressing its requirements precisely and ensuring that it has the proper form.  They rarely question motives or established processes.  A Dane once summed it by telling me of a time in class where Danish students were having a lively discussion about government motives and environmental protection while the Chinese students were silent.  The professor asked one Chinese student his opinion and the student replied with something to the effect of: "Sometimes, government just knows best."

It is interesting to me to think about where the American educational focus falls on this entirely unscientific continuum of styles.  While at first glance most of us would reject the "Chinese" model and find a lot to admire in the "Danish" one, I think that we may admire it for the wrong reasons.  It's appeal, in my opinion, is not necessarily the freedom and creativity it promotes, though they are certainly admirable.  It is the emphasis on equally preparing all citizens for participation in their nation's society.  Denmark provides free education, including college, for all its students.  And, lo and behold, China has recently begun to take steps toward ensuring that its poorest residents receive extra money to pay for their children's education.
If, as a nation, we do not do more to ensure that all our students have the ability to get a full college education regardless of wealth, it won't matter whether we promote the free-spirited "Danish" model or the rigid "Chinese" one.  We'll have already failed.

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Denmark is Doing something about it

Hello All,

Yesterday (Saturday) I had the opportunity to go on a day long trip to Lolland, an area in the southeast of Denmark.  Lolland's economy is based mostly on agriculture and is Denmark's poorest region.  It was somewhat surprising, therefore, to learn that Lolland is also doing more than perhaps any other part of Denmark to make itself a bastion of sustainability.

We visited a small school whose parking lot featured a shipping container holding the world's most advanced hydrogen fuel cell technology.  The container, in reality a demonstration facility, used wind energy from turbines located across Lolland  to create pure hydrogen by means of electrolysis.  This hydrogen is in effect an efficient way to store energy; always a problem as wind power is plentiful but intermittent.  The hydrogen is pumped to a test area of around 40 homes where it is converted by fuel cells into energy for heating and electricity.

What most impressed me about Lolland was not the high tech fuel cells, however.  It wasn't the presence of the 400+ wind turbines, including the world's original offshore field.  It wasn't even the pilot project in conjunction with NASA to grow offshore algae among the turbines, the most efficient substance for producing biofuels known to man.  The most impressive thing was that a small, resource-and-knowledge-poor area had decided that it was going to succeed by embracing sustainable development wholeheartedly.  Twenty-five years ago, when the last shipyard closed, the unemployment rate on Lolland was over 20 percent.  Today it is 4 percent, less even than Copenhagen's.  In the United States these days, it often seems to me that we have lost our drive to seek bold, innovative solutions to our problems.  For a variety of reasons, such proposals are dismissed as unfeasible pipe dreams.  The next time I hear such naysaying, I will know it to be a fallacy.  I will think of Lolland.

Saturday, September 5, 2009

Fact 2: Denmark is windy

I'm coming up on two full weeks in Denmark and I am beginning to settle in.  I'm living in a small apartment (and I mean small: one room, bathroom, stovetop, minifridge) located about a ten minute walk from my university campus.  The town I'm in, Roskilde (pronounced gutteral "r"- oss-kill-duh) is a smallish place located on one of Denmark's many fjords.  It's also a 20 minute train ride from downtown Copenhagen so the big city is accessible if I want it.

My academic curriculum consists of 3 classes that meet at most twice a week, plus a large, semester-long research project.  Right now, it looks like I will be working with a student from India on a project to determine the best way to implement small-scale wind and solar hybrid power stations in rural parts of the developing world.  Should be pretty interesting.  I'm hoping to work with some Danish companies that already produce wind turbines on how they can adapt their technology to impoverished rural areas.  Denmark is pretty much ground-zero for wind power expertise.  The first thing I saw as my plane descended on Copenhagen airport was a line of turbines in the Oresund Sound and I can see a wind turbine every time I walk from my apartment to class.

It's really no surprise, however, because the wind blows here literally all the time.  It's not bad in and of itself, but it is often accompanied by overcast skies and some light rain.  My first weekend in Copenhagen was warm and nice, but I'm starting to worry that it might have been the last good weather until spring.

Once I get a bike, which will hopefully be next week, I plan to do some long riding up and down the fjord.  Roskilde fjord was one of the points from which the Vikings embarked on their voyages around Europe and there are supposed to be cool historical sites all around here.  Additionally, I've discovered that there is a Saturday basketball league organized by the university so I won't have to wait until I'm back in the States to hoop.  Woo-hoo!

Until next time...

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Some pics from around Copenhagen

The Little Mermaid

Wind Power!

This is actually a fountain, but it wasn't on.

Copenhagen Opera House

Amelienborg Palace, home of the Danish Royal Family

Nyhavn Canal

Christiansborg Casle

A canal

Copenhagen Town Hall

Tivoli Gardens Amusement Park

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Fact 1: Denmark is old

Last night, following my Fulbright orientation day, the new grantees went to a dinner with the Danish Fulbright Comission staff and board members. The locale was a building in the middle of Copenhagen called Admiral Gjeddes Gaard. The original farm (it was a farm once open a time, despite now being in downtown Copenhagen) dates from the 15th century and has housed or hosted illegitimate royal children, the legendary astronomer Tycho Brahe, the wedding of a Prime Minister, several brothels, the founder of the Danish East India Colony, an accountant who helped start not only the Danish Resistance but also Arthur Andersen (of ENRON fame), king's ministers, the Danish Journalist's Union, the printing press in Copenhagen, a gunpowder factory and, naturally, several ghosts.

As an unabashed history geek, you can understand how awesome it was to be having a three-course dinner in a 600 year-old building.* Conversation topics at my table of three American Fulbrighters, one Danish staff member and two Danish board members ranged from European integration to Danish women's handball to the American health care debate (you can't escape it...) After many toasts (Skal!) and many laughs we parted ways. I was hoping to see the spirit of the thieving orphan girl on my out, but had no such luck. I'm sure there will be many more chances to see the ghosts of Denmark's long and storied past during the coming year.

http://www.admiralgjeddesgaard.dk/index.php?id=13


*The original building burned down in 1728, so technically I was only eating in a 250 year old structure. But really.

Welcome!

Thank you for visiting my blog. I hope you'll enjoy following along with my year-long Danish (and maybe pan-European) adventure. I'm going to try and do things a little differently from my first blogging experience. Instead of lengthy descriptions of everything I do, I'm going to try shorter, anecdotal posts. I think these will be easier to follow and also more interesting.

Daniel